A determined, sophisticated woman who is never afraid of daring, even with colors. This is the focal point for Arthur Arbesser S/S 2019, where the Viennese designer presents an idea of femininity that is both strong and no-nonsense, almost haughty but, at the same time, full of sensuality and irony.
This collection speaks to the spirit of a playful woman, who is never frightened and discovers herself with her head held high, and it was deeply inspired by the creations of the ceramist Vally Wieselthier. But, if the almost surrealist mood of Wieselthier meets the study of gold and metallic fabrics and its contrast with natural textures such as jute and jersey, makeup-wise this translates into a rainbow of orange, greens, and pinks. Colors are enhanced by the simplicity of the lips, left nude and natural, and the contrast translates in the dichotomy orange-red lips, rigorously opaque, and naked eyes.
Because it is precisely contrast, together with the eclectic spirit of Wieselthier’s art, to work as a common thread both for the collection and makeup.
Kiko Milano signed the makeup and, with this, the collaboration between the Viennese designer and the Italian brand continues after the Capsule Collection in partnership with the brand: the Active Fluo, which was released in May 2017 by Arthur Arbessers x Kiko. But, if the products were Kiko’s, the hand was the one from the London Makeup Artist Benjamin Puckey.
Benjamin created a makeup which finds its focal point on the eyes, and that fits and plays with the mood of the woman dressed by Arthur Arbesser, whose temper changes whirlwind but still remains electric, lively.
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“Colors are enhanced by the simplicity of the lips, left nude and natural, and the contrast translates in the dichotomy orange-red lips, rigorously opaque, and naked eyes.”
Benjamin created a makeup which finds its focal point on the eyes, and that fits and plays with the mood of the woman dressed by Arthur Arbesser, whose temper changes whirlwind but still remains electric, lively.
It’s impossible not to be captivated by the intense pigments, skilfully mixed to create a universe of bright contrasts with oranges, greens, and browns. And, yet, at the same time, the colors find their own – bright and somehow overwhelming – harmony.
To create an intense eye look, a real carousel of color, Benjamin worked with the Smart Cult Eyeshadow Palette and with various shades of Smart Color eyeshadows. He started by applying the two contrasting matte shades on the outer corner of the eye, leaving the colors in their full intensity and then blending them together.
“An imperfect perfection,” Benjamin defined it, “a playful look” that always finds a way to balance two intense and very different shades, such as pink and blue or purple and green. The focus is therefore on the inner and outer corners of the eye, while everything else is faded and blurred.
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SELF
CONFIDENT
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CREATIVE
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“IMPERFECT
PERFECTION”
Benjamin used all the colors that the palette offered, drawing inspiration and ideas from the possibilities and games offered by the various shades of ocher, blue and reds. This un-harmonic harmony composes a electric look that does not, and doesn’t want to, go unnoticed, further dramatized by the defined eyebrows (thanks to the Eyebrow Designer Gel Mascara) and the black Ultra Tech Volume + Definition Mascara.
Another note, remarkable in its sporadic nature, playing some sort of artistic peek-a-boo between colorful eyes and naked lips, is the one represented by the bright orangey-red lipstick: a difference of focus that, once again, creates a sense of contrast that does nothing but enhances the color notes in the remaining looks.
“The focus for this makeup
is color,
a playful look.”
And, even if it is not always possible to play with colors with the same flamboyant confidence shown by the woman intended by Arthur Arbesser, Benjamin revealed us a little beauty secret to recreating this look: if you want to dare with color, you should never be afraid to go for matte shades. Since matte shades reflect the light in a different way than the shimmer eyeshadows, using opaque colors, the beauty look shall always result a bit simpler. It takes off the risk of attracting all the attention on the color and opens up, on the other hand, all the possibilities of playing with contrasts.
Photographer: @giorgiafuria
