The Very Best of New York Fashion Week | Fall/Winter 2017-18

Snow has whitened the initial days of the New York Fashion Week, the first fashion week that has started, on February 9, 2017. This is the month dedicated to the presentation of future collections which will then see the movement of the spotlight on the catwalks of London, Milan and Paris. Innovation, tradition, peculiarities and beauty have been showed these days (until the 16th) in the Big Apple and we offer you a list of the best looks proposed in some of the most awaited fashion shows:

_______

CALVIN KLEIN

______
The long-awaited debut of Raf Simons as Creative Director of Calvin Klein was a success that did not disappoint the expectations of the most: after changing the logo of the brand in the name of a return to the origins, the collection is minimalist too. American, casual, unisex and adapted to the various commitments of the day, even for work. The bright colors are mixed in an original way, the coats and raincoats leave space for transparency and the predominance of suit or shirt and pants is absolute. The prints are monochromatic or simple anyway, with few tissues used. Sitting in the front row to see the show there were also Millie Bobbie Brown (new muse of the brand) and Sarah Jessica Parker.

_______

JEREMY SCOTT

_______
Extravagance is the most important thing for the designer, who even with this collection surprises and hits us for contrasts (both motifs, and above all, colors) and peculiarities (leopard print paired with pants adorned with a representation of Christ, stripes combined to squares in an optical way, bright fuchsia trousers for men and hats that resemble those of Carnival in Rio): the overall effect recalls the 70s for the aura of transgression and for the reference to this style. Stockings, coats of feathers, leather suits, long and striped dresses mixed with pop accessories: extravagance has definitely been shown in New York!

_______

JASON WU

_______
Classicism and formality are the adjectives that best describe this parade, which marks the 10 year of life of the brand: single sided and semi transparent golden or black cocktail dresses give way to other more elegant day-suits composed by jacket and pants, mostly on dark colors. The monochrome is alternated with artistic motifs,while large bags for work are added to evening handbags: every opportunity is coupled with an ideal in the mind of the designer.

_______

JONATHAN SIMKHAI

_______
Creativity without excesses is at the core of the items proposed in this show, where pale tones  are alternated to classic white, black and blue ones. Clothes have transparencies, necklines and fur decorative elements, while in formal outfits and not (there is also room for jeans) the cuts are original.

_______

SIES MARJAN

_______
A palette of colors, especially bright pastel, made with translucent fabrics and geometric shapes, came to life on the runway: the split are not only the skirts, but also on long shirts; the shoes are chromatically matched in a respectful or in a total disharmony way, without being too overwhelming. The jackets are quite always present even if in different models: in conclusion, we would define this presentation “urban chic”.

_______

JENNY PACKHAM

_______
A variety of fabrics (leather, fur, lace), prints (from squares to monochrome) and original colors are present  together obtaining a colorful and happy result: clothes have different lengths (of sleeves mostly) and the overall result is alternative without being overwhelming; far from it, it is indeed pleasant.

_______

BRANDON MAXWELL

_______
The show opens and closes on bright colors and glitter, while in the middle we have more silver, black or white tones: the dress, with skirt and/or long  or short sleeves, is the protagonist; embroidery designs on the bustiers are valuable and the square pattern gives way to most elegant and sensual motifs, in a mix of forms definitely feminine and never boring.

_______

VICTORIA BECKHAM

_______
The informality and the composure are a fashion designer’s signature, that even for this collection takes a comfortable fit, almost casual: coats and jackets give way to long and colorful dresses and  motifs, mostly geometric patterns. The shapes are linear and essential, and rain boots, presents quite in every looks, suggest the idea of the English countryside and the polo.

_______

THE ROW

_______
Simple styling and monochromatic (mostly in shades of black, grey and blue) make the complex almost unisex with the proposal of waterproof, jacket and shirts tighten on the waist by a belt. The minimal is seen in the repetition of the models presented in an essential and pure way.

_______

ZIMMERMANN

_______
The knee high boots are the only recurring element of the parade, in which are alternated monochromatic, linear and floral motifs; also the forms are very varied, from dresses to suits, all different from each other for details or finishings. The coat, or any way a long element, be it a skirt or sleeve or pantsuits, are  alternated ad reproduced between them with balance.

_______

ROSIE ASSOULIN

_______
The presentation of this new collection is a play of references to styles, patterns and different uses, even of the past: from Victorian skirts almost  to the skinny ones or to the pants, low-cut shirts to jackets in a variety of colors, shapes and different details that make the total harmonious and pleasant in its diversity.

_______

CAROLINA HERRERA

_______
Pure elegance, almost scholastic, characterizes the first looks seen on the catwalk, which are later alternated with coats of various shape and  light and refined clothes in their variety of patterns, colors and materials, with an abundance of tulle; all in all, a show that never disappoints for the care of the workmanship and the total effect of extreme delicacy.

_______

DENNIS BASSO

_______
Fur items are consistent, whether it is a coat or a simple decorative element, even in summer dresses:  colors are gold, black and brown, that keep us fixed on the idea of autumn, to the detriment of certain models presented which are low-cut and sensual. Necklines are deep and there is a variety of patterns, shapes, details or compositions. The accessories are completely absent.

_______

NAEEM KHAN

_______
The game of “see don’t see” is enriched with precious or bright details, making each piece unique for  finishes, colors, shapes (more or less adherent and transparent), patterns (from floral and tribal to artistic ones) or accessories (such as shoes or skirts with feathers). Each look is exquisitely prepared, and the result is always different, surprising and original.

_______

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

_______
If there’s one designer who surprises us every time without ever leaving classicism is Oscar de la Renta: in this case, the impact is due to colorful combinations of some brightly colored pieces, by luminous details and reinvented models like the skinny clothing or the full suites or classic coats in a particular way and treated for use of details, motifs and innovative materials. We cannot admire the choice of respect mixed to avanguard that he proposes.

_______

MARCHESA

_______
The basic idea is that of a fairy tale set in the nature, where precious, transparent and elegant dresses are presented on the catwalk for a  magnificent result in its variety of models, finishes and patterns, along with some floral woven hats which highlight the Arcadian idea. The lightness never fails in this variety of colors that confirms the recognized style of  the brand: an item is never equal to the previous ones.

_______

ANNA SUI

_______
Creativity knows no bounds in this parade, which also involves the makeup, headdresses, hairstyles, shoes and other accessories. A mix of patterns, fabrics of various kinds (above all velvet) and unusual outfits, makes the collection chaotic, colorful and original.

_______

DELPOZO

_______
The proposal for the new season is the return of the same patterns throughout the show but changing them in some way for motifs (like the lines or the floral) or colors (the color palette includes them all, also purple and yellow). The lines of the dresses are mostly rigid, alternated to suits and coats. When not tending to monochrome, it is remarkable the attention to details and peculiarities that each model offers.

_______

BADGLEY MISCHKA

_______
We were used, since the first proposal, to see many dresses, but we were surprised when we find towards the end all those winter looks, accompanied with a wool hat too! So clothes are elegant for motifs, fabrics and the composite style offered, while the latest solutions fit the daily or sportif needs of any woman. It seems therefore that there are alternatives able to satisfy everyone!