Brace yourselves, the Fashion Week’s month started: fashion lovers are particularly happy during this period, for they finally have the opportunity to discover the next season’s trend and to admire the creations of the various designers who are going to show their creations between New York, London, Milan and Paris.
The first Fashion Week of the year took place in New York, immediately followed by the London Fashion Week, during which were proposed many looks in line with the brands (as in Emilia Wickstead or Jonathan Simkhai’s cases), original creations (like those of Philipp Plein and Burberry) and unique accessories (such as the hats of Calvin Klein).
It wasn’t short of exciting moments, among which we find the parade of Prabal Gurung, conceived as a celebration of women, the retirement of Carolina Herrera, who greeted the audience for the last time together with her atelier’s collaborators and the last collection of Burberry designed by Christopher Bailey, in support of the LGBTQ+ Community.
In the end, we can totally say that these NYFW and LFW engaged, excited and surprised us. With these premises, our expectations for Milan and Paris are high and we can’t wait to discover in which and how many ways the designers are going to amaze us!
But what were the fashion shows that most amazed us during this New York and London Fashion weeks, and why?
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New York and London Fashion Week F/W 2018
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
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JASON WU
Jason Wu surprised us in a… Brilliant way! Not only because of the location, decorated with colorful flower patterns, but also and especially for the collection itself, composed of different clothes adorned by Swarovski’s brilliants. The creations are mostly casual (from coats to long dresses, passing through suits with skirts and trousers) and the use of different colors (from blue to pink, from green to brown) making the fashion show a triumph of pure and simple creativity that we never get tired of. Bravo, Jason!
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New York and London Fashion Week F/W 2018
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
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PRABAL GURUNG
A hymn to women, to beauty, to strength, to awareness: Prabal Gurung has always taken advantage of the fashion shows to share his feminist message and, this time, he did it by pulling in the final all models while hanging a flower, a demonstration of support also to the movement #MeToo (the founder Tara Burke was seated in the front row), born as a result of the sexual scandals that have shocked Hollywood and the world. His creations, including velvet dresses, feather finishes and some soft over-size sweaters, are inspired by some important powerful women, while the wide use of pink, purple and light shades (often associated with sex) is an additional vehicle that the stylist has used to stress yet again the importance and value of womanhood.
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New York and London Fashion Week F/W 2018
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
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THE ROW
Art that meets art, or, when fashion meets sculpture: that’s what happened in the study of Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, where the models walked through art pieces created by the artist Isamu Noguchi and given to the stylists by the Noguchi Museum (Queens, NY).
The casual and the essential minimalism, that involves both the shapes of the dresses and the colors used, seems to be infused with the New York spirit, with the formality that certain working environments offer and with the comfortable elegance that suits the typical woman who runs down the 5th Avenue every day. A real homage to the city, which makes this collection one of the most interesting and suggestive proposed by The Row in the last seasons.
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New York and London Fashion Week F/W 2018
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
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CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
10 years of success, 10 years of Splendid creations, 10 years of sensuality and beauty: Christian Siriano celebrated this first important milestone with a collection that includes creations inspired by the various events and people for whom he worked over the years. In addition, he did parade models plus-size (one on all, Ashley Graham) to underline how beauty is not defined by the size, but by the essence of a person and how she carries herself. Among the 72 dresses presented, there are fluffy evening dresses, eco furs, tight creations and complete formats, as well as a great variety of materials, motifs and colors that make the presentation a real ode to the work of the stylist.
We can only take this opportunity to wish him an equally satisfactory and spectacular future!
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New York and London Fashion Week F/W 2018
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
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JONATHAN SIMKHAI
Another ode to feminism, this time inspired by the Suffragette movement: Jonathan Simkhai for autumn/winter 2018 has thought of a collection that would honor equality and respect, values for which women have been protesting for centuries. Between lace corsets, silk dresses, structured blazers and sensually cut dresses (even completed by gloves), Simkhai has made his models a vessel for the feminist message, giving life to a parade that’s both committed and aesthetically pleasing. On the other hand, as Beyoncé teaches: “Who run the world? Girls! “.
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New York and London Fashion Week F/W 2018
LONDON FASHION WEEK
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MARTA JACUBOWSKI
The stylist’s main inspiration was… herself! At the base of the designs and patterns there are, in fact, Marta’s memories of how the mother used to dress her as a child. Moreover, there’s the will to represent the woman for who she is, both as a businesswoman (represented by the suits) and as woman who enjoys life in a total carefree mood (represented instead by dresses): casual, chic, elegant, retro… Nothing is missing in this collection. Above all, the stylist’s willingness to spread a feminist message of respect and freedom is clear.
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New York and London Fashion Week F/W 2018
LONDON FASHION WEEK
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JASPER CONRAN
Colors and simplicity: these are the elements behind the latest Jasper Conran collection, which is extremely clean, refined and essential. The shapes of the dresses are soft and enveloping (from coats to trousers, passing through clothes marked on the waistline), the plissé is dominant and the minimalism touches its extremes with a total absence of accessories. The colors are matched with complementary shades or used as sole protagonists of the whole look. The entire thing is designed for an energetic and casual woman, but who’s at the same time aware of her potential and for this reason she’s always radiant, like the colors used and the general mood of this collection.
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New York and London Fashion Week F/W 2018
LONDON FASHION WEEK
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BURBERRY
A standing ovation welcomed the last collection of Christopher Bailey, who after 17 years leaves the creative direction of Burberry, marking the end of an era. For his last collection, Christopher decided to make fashion “useful”, using it as a way to communicate his support to the LGBTQ + community: for the occasion, the iconic Burberry pattern has been reinvented with the rainbow’s colors and has been used in many of the dresses presented. In addition, a generous donation was made by the brand to associations that support the rights of the LGBTQ + Community. Furthermore, it was the stylist’s most self-referential fashion show, where he took inspiration from the places and moments of the past that most resonated to him, as well as from the English street style of the ’80s and ’90s. For this combination between past, present, and future, and for the willingness to propose to the young people of today and tomorrow pieces of clothing and accessories that were fashionable 20 years ago, the collection is entitled “Time”. Nostalgia was a key element of this collection and, with the farewell of Bailey, we are left with Nostalgia and the idea of the Burberry that was and that, inevitably, will no longer be.
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New York and London Fashion Week F/W 2018
LONDON FASHION WEEK
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DELPOZO
After 10 years of fashion shows in New York, DelPozo decided to move to London, where he presented an extremely feminine and refined collection: using a wide range of colors (including eccentric shades like fuchsia and yellow), Delpozo gave life to creations, both in terms of clothing and accessories, with lines that are simple but elegant, due to his architectural studies. The two main inspirations behind this fashion show were the images by the 1930 National Geographic, never published before, depicting the lotus petals (which here came to life in the details of the belts and as inserts on the clothes), and the work of the Parisian artist Inès Longevial, who made colors and optimism its main tools of work.
From the combination of these two elements was born a spring vibe, youthful and sparkly collection, able to revive the mood of anyone who’s looking and wearing it.
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New York and London Fashion Week F/W 2018
LONDON FASHION WEEK
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ERDEM
Erdem Moraliogu was inspired by the portrait of Adele Astaire, sister to the famous Fred, kept at the National Portrait Gallery in London, for this latest collection: “I was obsessed by the idea of this girl who was much more famous and far more talented than the brother who, one day, quit her career as a showgirl to retire in the Irish countryside with her husband, the son of the Duke of Devonshire.”
The stylist wanted to pay homage to Adele’s years as a showgirl, proposing elaborate clothes, inserts in feathers and sparking with a vintage allure. The shapes of the clothes and the outfits recall the Roaring ‘20s, the ballrooms, the Diva of another time, without losing the focus on the present, here represented by the floral decorations that raised Erdem as one of the most British and romantic brands of the last years.
