Knowing that I think about the actual Roman Empire about once a week (now even more thanks to the trailer of “Gladiator II”), I have to admit that I am a big fan of the concept of identifying your own Roman Empire. That is, that topic, or that list of topics, that represents a real personal obsession, on which we constantly keep ourselves updated and that animate us when they pop up in a conversation, making us appear a little weird at times.
The great thing is that this speech can be applied to any topic: history, general culture, films, news, and, of course, fashion. Here, if I have to think about my passion for this area of interest, I must also admit that it was a love influenced by many elements, looks, and information accumulated over time and now jealously guarded on a shelf (although it would be more appropriate to say wardrobe) in my memory, almost as if it were an emotion in itself if we wanted to see it through the eyes of “Inside Out“.
Above all, some great protagonists stand out, some of which may seem insignificant to others but who, for some reason, are imprinted in my mind and do not intend to leave. They are, precisely, those Roman Empires that I jealously guard in my heart and that make me unbearable when a glimmer of conversation opens up in which to insert them. Do they make sense? Yes and no. Are they universally recognized fashion cornerstones? Not all of them, not necessarily. I don’t care and for this reason, I will proceed to present them anyway. Exactly.
Le Smoking by Yves Saint Laurent
Last year I was in Marrakesh and I couldn’t miss visiting the Musée Yves Saint Laurent on the occasion: as soon as you enter, there is a wall of photos that retraces the extraordinary career of Yves Saint Laurent, including the iconic Vogue France shot from 1975 that portrays Vibeke Knudsen wearing the equally iconic Le Smoking by the designer. Saint Laurent was the first in history to adapt a suit that was considered exclusively male until the mid-1960s to scale down the concept of sensuality and broaden the horizons of femininity, which has become so androgynous and bold as never before. I think of the absolute strength that women must have felt in wearing such a piece knowing that they were causing an incredible cultural and style change: and I am jealous that I wasn’t among them.
Audrey Hepburn in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”
Call me “basic” but the way this film shaped my passion for fashion is indisputable. That first frame of Audrey Hepburn stopping in front of the Tiffany windows with the iconic Little Black Dress by Givenchy, the sheet (then carefully arranged by Givenchy himself) used by Holly as a dress for the party scene at her house, the accessories… Maybe it’s because Audrey Hepburn is my favorite actress ever, but it’s undeniable the influence that this film and the character of Holly have had not only in the history of cinema but also in fashion.
Alexander McQueen’s Plato’s Atlantis Collection
I wonder what Lee Alexander McQueen would think if he were still here to admire the surprising influence that his work has had and still has in fashion. In particular, his latest collection, presented in 2010, Plato’s Atlantis, a futuristic re-enactment of the legendary city of Atlantis, where the theme of metamorphosis and the sea are the protagonists of the incredible scenographic, sartorial and artistic work that makes this collection a triumph of experimentation and wonder. The absolute protagonists, the dizzying Armadillo shoes later made iconic by Lady Gaga. A mix of history, nature, technology, avant-garde, myth, and excess that even today cannot be defined in any other way than: revolutionary.
Claire Danes’ dress at the 2016 Met Gala
It’s been 8 years since the Met Gala theme ‘Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology’ (P.S. When will we see a red carpet as iconic again?!) and the Zac Posen dress by Claire Danes that glows in the dark remains firmly in first place in my ranking of the best dresses ever seen at the Met Gala. The princely shape that recalls Cinderella’s dress, the use of optical fibers to allow the dress to light up, the magic of the occasion: a celestial and unforgettable vision!
Kate Middleton gets marry in Alexander McQueen
And who can forget the moment I saw Kate Middleton get out of the Rolls-Royce on her wedding day in 2011 and the news commentator in the background announced that it was an Alexander McQueen creation? I certainly didn’t, so much so that from that moment on we were all certain that Sarah Burton would lead the brand very well, after McQueen’s passing (which she did until a few months ago). An intricate lace and floral motif with a layered bodice and skirt, a train of almost 3 meters, and buttons on the back of the dress, the Cartier Halo tiara… All details are still present on the Pinterest board dedicated to my wedding mood board.
The Latest Wave Cover and the Related Water & Oil Editorial by Vogue Italia
Franca Sozzani, historic director of Vogue Italia, has created some of the most impactful and effective covers of the magazine ever; one above all, that of the August 2010 issue dedicated to environmental disasters. Inspired by the oil disaster in the Gulf of Mexico in April of the same year, the cover (and the editorial inside) made the entire world reflect on the impact of environmental disasters, opening the dialogue around the fact that fashion itself is complicit in countless damages to our planet and those who inhabit it. Shot by Steven Meisel, the model Kristen McMenamy is immortalized covered in oil, trapped in nets, dying on the shore, unable to save herself. An editorial choice as bold as it is, unfortunately, still sadly current.
Rodarte SS18 Collection
If I had to choose just one collection to own in its entirety and wear for the rest of my days, I would have no hesitation in indicating this one. Presented by the Mulleavy sisters in a blooming cloister in Paris during the Haute Couture season, the collection is a riot of flowers, femininity, and absolutely exquisite elaborate details. From headdresses with fresh flowers to bows in the hair, from pastel colors to light fabrics, from sinuous shapes to transparencies, the photos of this collection have been my phone screensaver since July 2017. Just to give you an idea.
The Gucci Resort 2019 Collection by Gucci
To stay on the theme of fashion shows, if the Rodarte collection reflects my aesthetic perfectly, it is also true that the Gucci collection presented in the romantic necropolis of Arles made my gothic soul’s heart beat faster like perhaps only the 1992 film “Bram Stoker’s Dracula”. I followed the fashion show live from the IG Live on the brand’s profile and already from the choice of location and the flames to delimit the catwalk, I understood that a new Roman Empire of mine was under construction. Alessandro Michele combined gothic aesthetics with historical and streetwear elements in a masterful way, crossing the border between life and death to demonstrate how these two aspects are in reality inextricably linked to each other.
Serena Van Der Woodsen and that Zuhair Murad dress
“Gossip Girl” has given us a multitude of iconic looks but I, being team Serena, couldn’t help but be obsessed with one in particular worn by Blake Lively: specifically, the dress I’ve never stopped thinking about appears in the eighth episode of the fourth season, and it’s a gray Zuhair Murad dress with sheer details, long sleeves and a train. I’d also like to remember why this dress impressed me so much but I can’t, so we “settle” for its splendid iconicity.
